The distance between Karakallou Monastery and Filotheou is quite short. But the ancient stone path only goes up, through a cool forest of sweet chestnut trees. It is a beautiful and gentle climb, about 3 kilometers long. The ascent is more than 150 meters.
At a chapel of Agios Nicólaos, about a third of the distance to Filoteou, some heavy and noisy work was going on. Not only was the chapel being restored, but the stone path also seemed to disappear under a layer of cement. Undoubtedly pleasant for pilgrims who have difficulty walking, but I always long for the old paths. Clouds of dust blew up from the stone sawing work.
A lot of attention is paid to the details of the path. Stones of three colors and different sizes laid in a compartmentalized circle. Even the year of the construction, 2022, has been added. If only they had ever done that! How wonderful it would be to read on our hikes years like: AD 1305 or AD 1641 on the paths. But unfortunately we never came across anything like that on our walks on the ancient footpaths of Athos.
Here, just past the chapel, the old path reappears. On the left of the photo there is a sign to the exit for Kelli Timiou Prodrómou. The new path is reinforced with iron and still needs to be poured.
Substantial work at Filotheou. This is what the monastery looked like upon arrival. No part is skipped; the entire facade is under restoration. A small part seems to have already been completed. You wonder whether the monks are not bothered by all the construction noise, the hammering, the sawing, the screeching construction cranes and the shouted instructions and warnings of the construction workers. It is such a huge contrast with the serene tranquility that makes Athos so beneficial.
What a difference from September 3, 1856 when Edward Lear made this drawing of Filotheou.
I end with a series of slides of the built world within the walls of Filotheou. With some effort it was sometimes possible to avoid a construction crane. One of the striking things in the courtyard of the monastery is the lawn, which is quite unique to Athos, usually the interior space is completely paved with stones. Another striking element is the corridor that connects the church with the refectory. There is a lot of colored glass in that corridor, which provides surprising views. There is a very beautiful old cypress in the court yard. And finally, the medieval corridors are also cabled. Modern times. Time does not always stand still on Athos.
Bas Kamps
