After a brief visit to Maroudá we had to return to Skiti Andreou, where we would spend the night. Soon after we left the kellion, the Protos of the Holy Epistasia, Father Paul, visited the kellion, as we found out later. Jan Paul ten Bruggencate send me these pictures of this visit:

We started our hike at the gate of Maroudá (nr 1 at the map below). This time we took the short route over a monopati, instead of the long walk over the dirt road on our outward hike to the kellion.The parking, where the monopati starts.Not far from Maroudá we passed this kelli called Kimisis Theotokou – Molyvokklisia (nr 2 on the map above), with vines growing above us.Above the front door: a painting of the Panaghia with the child Jesus and the Saints Savvas and Simeon. The resident(s) were not there, but they made sure to earn some extra money by presenting these goods in this case (just like farmers do in the countryside).Here (at nr 3 on the map above), the monopati turns in a dirt road for a short distance.Soon after the monopati stops definitively. Beware, it is not difficult to miss this sign and the monopati: it starts just after leaving the main road (20 meters, on your left hand) .And finally you arrive on the main road between Dafni and Karyes again.Signs near Skiti Andreou (nr 4 at the map above).

Wim, 29-4

Herman Voogd

“ΑΠΟ ΤΗΝ ΕΥΛΟΓΗΜΕΝΗ ΞΕΝΟΦΩΝΤΙΝΗ ΣΚΗΤΗ ΕΥΧΟΜΑΣΤΕ ΜΕ ΑΓΑΠΗ ΧΡΙΣΤΟΥ ΟΙ ΠΑΤΕΡΕΣ ΤΟΥ ΓΕΡΟΝΤΑ ΝΙΚΩΝΑ ΚΑΛΗ ΑΝΑΣΤΑΣΗ” – Happy (Orthodox) Easter from gerontas Nikon from skiti Xenofontosand from Athosweblog!

Wim Voogd, Herman Voogd and Bas Kamps

We sat silently behind a glass of fresh water and some loukoumi in the guesthouse. The archontaris, the guest monk, was very quiet, contemplative, and we didn’t speak. We just sat in the gloomy, long and narrow room next to the entrance. After a while he broke the silence and asked us if we wanted to visit the church. A suggestion we accepted in gratitude. We followed him. In his right hand he held the enormous keys. In the katholikon he invited us to take a quick picture. The direct sunlight in the church set the golden colours in a warm glow.
The monastery of Stavronikita, Conquering Cross, is devoted to Saint Nicolas who is portrayed here on this fresco in the inner court yard. According to J.J. Norwich Stavronikita is the youngest, smallest and poorest of the monasteries. And he remarked that is was the only ruling monastery that was established since the fall of Constantinople. It was built between 1527-1536. He predicted in 1966 that it probably be the first to crumble altogether into ruins and die. History proofed him very wrong.
The famous mosaic icon of Saint Nicolas, Nicolas the Wonder-worker of Myra. Monks had thrown the icon in the sea, during times of iconoclasm. Much later they caught the fourteenth century icon in a fishing-net and they found that an oyster was stuck in the face of St. Nicholas. When they pulled the oyster out, blood ran from the wound where the oyster had been in the icon. That’s the miracle that happened in 1553. The story of Saint Nicolas can also be found on a site entirely devoted to Saint Nicolas. The importance of this story is highlighted by the fact that a part of the oyster is kept in the sacristy of the Patriarchate of Moscow.
The semantron. In the church all instruments but the human voice are forbidden. Outside the katholikon there is one exception to that rule, the semantron, on which a monk beats with a wooden hammer every time when the service or a procession is about to start.  You don’t hear bells to call for service. There are some bell towers on Athos, in Russicon and Kafsokalivia for instance. All pilgrims will recognise the rhythmic sound of the semantron, that marks the beginning of a new day, probably around four o’clock in the morning.
The quiet inner courtyard of Stavronikita with potted plants, a large amphora and a citrus tree. Reflections of sunlight were playing on the floor and walls. I visited a toilet going up to the right, which was lit by an oil lamp.
A rusty iron cross on a stone pedestal in an alcove, set in an orange glow. Just behind the cross is a loose stone in the wall. It made me curious but I didn’t explore what was hidden there. This cross probable was a witness to all the fires and vibrations that Stavronikita has suffered from.
Still life with a monk’s robe at the entrance gate of the monastery. It was very tempting to stay in that candle lit paradise, but it was time to move on.

Photos and text

Bas Kamps

The film

Our reader Vasilis discovered this new documentary about Athos, that is to be released the day after tomorrow (13/5) in Vienna – Austria (Stadtkino im Kuenstlerhaus) and will be shown in German cinema from June 23th.

Here is the trailer:

On the Facebook site you will see some more previews: Skiti Profitou Eliou with the archontaris Father Filimon, different places, like the harbor Dafni, are filmed by a drone and Father Epifanios in the Mylopotamos vineyard – all in Greek with German subtitles.

I hope we will be able to see this movie in Holland of other countries… for more pictures look here.

The book

The new book is in English and is called: “Holy Men of Mount Athos”, about the life of five holy men who once lived on Athos, edited and translated Richard Greenfield and Alice-Mary Talbot.

Published by Harvard University Press, ISBN 13: 9780674088764

“Often simply called the Holy Mountain, Mount Athos was the most famous center of Byzantine monasticism and remains the spiritual heart of the Orthodox Church today. This volume presents the Lives of Euthymios the Younger, Athanasios of Athos, Maximos the Hutburner, Niphon of Athos, and Philotheos. These five holy men lived on Mount Athos at different times from its early years as a monastic locale in the ninth century to the last decades of the Byzantine period in the early fifteenth century. All five were celebrated for asceticism, clairvoyance, and, in most cases, the ability to perform miracles; Euthymios and Athanasios were also famed as founders of monasteries. Holy Men of Mount Athos illuminates both the history and the varieties of monastic practice on Athos, individually by hermits as well as communally in large monasteries. The Lives also demonstrate the diversity of hagiographic composition and provide important glimpses of Byzantine social and political history.

All the Lives in this volume are presented for the first time in English translation, together with authoritative editions of their Greek texts.”

Wim Voogd, 11/5

On my ongoing search (on the internet) I found these pictures and plans of Vatopedi:

detailed plan of the monastery and its surrounding buildingsold postcard from the courtyardpostcard trapeza (mixed with a courtyard picture?)Vatopedi 1980 – with the blue color beneath the ancient marble tables (from the Studios monastery in Constantinople?) – foto Wim Voogd

Abbot Efraimmore recent pictures of the trapeza (just before the meal starts, the blue color has changed into white)engraving L’Illustration 14/10/1876engraving with ancient ships from the 16/17th century
Postcard from the boathouses and the monasteryAerial VatopediVatopedi seen from the Northmodern postcard

Vatopedi ossuary

Th pictures below are from our Athos friend Jan Paul ten Bruggencate, who visited Vatopedi in 1967.The trapeza (look at the ruined wing on the right).Here, again,, the old situation of the ruined East wing to be seen (left from the bell tower). Today this part of the wing is completely renewed.Vatopedi entrance – all pictures from Jan Paul ten Bruggencate

Wim Voogd, 14/5

Karyes, main square with shop.
Sign near Kaliagra.
Reflection in the exo narthex of the Pantocratoros main church.
The Esfigmenou fire truck.Birdsnest in Esfigmenou courtyard.Tomatoes in the Esfigmenou kitchen.
Machine in Esfigmenou near the harbour.
Pantokratoros near the main entrance.Fishnets at the Esfigmenou harbour.

Herman Voogd

Vegetation with Vatopedi in the background.
“Colous”-plant near the small back entrance of Stavronikita.

Cactus fruits in front of Pantokratoros.
Berries with Simonaspetras behind.
Leaves in the forest.Rosehips near Chera on the central ridge between Vatopedi and Sografou.
Tree Trunk and branches near Nea Skiti.Robin in Nea Skiti.

Bell pepper in a Nea Skiti garden.

Photo’s by Herman Voogd

In the small ‘library’of our summer holiday resort ‘Skitis Hotel-Bungalows’ I found this book of the wife of Sidney Loch, Joice NanKivell Loch, who lived in the tower until her death in 1981. The book is called  “A fringe of blue – an autobiography. I did not have the time to read it, but I found this recent review on the internet:

‘Vivid and streightforward narrative of the WWII time-spice Eastern and SE Europe focusing on the Greek peninsula of Athos. How modern this book has become nowdays where once more refugees arrive in Greece in hundreds of thousands, and humanitarian organisations and volunteers need an inspiration to perform good-willingly and efficiently’.

The book also contains a couple of black and white pictures of mss Loch herself, the interior of her home in the Ouranopolis (then called Prosforion) tower and one of the beach near the tower:Mss Loch played an important role in Ouranopolis after the first WW, together with her husband, when the etnic cleansing took place and she helped with the re-settlement of the Greeks from Asia Minor. She provided work for the newcomers by starting a textile industry in Ouranopolis.Our friend Jan Paul ten Bruggencate met her in 1969 and took this picture.1967 – view from the tower – Jan Paul ten BruggencateOuranopolis 1967 – Jan Paul ten BruggencateThe tower 1967 – Jan Paul ten BruggencateThe couple is buried in the graveyard in Ouranopolis.

Wim Voogd, 18/5

The President of the Russian Federation Vladimir Putin has arranged to visit Athens and the St. Panteleimon Monastery at Mount Athos on the 27th and 28th of May respectively.

The spokesperson for the Greek government Olga Gerovasili commented that the visit is an “extremely important event” and a great opportunity to further enhance the economic and energy relations between Greece and Russia.

Reports suggest that security at the monastery will be high, with Russian officials having already arrived and making preparations for President Putin’s visit. Patriarch Kirill of Moscow will also be present at Mounth Athos during the Presidential visit.

Source: Tovima.gr

Foto: waitress Maria in  the Isalos bar in Ouranoupolis is showing a portrait of Putin (Okt. 2011)

Early photograph of Sografou (1867 – 1872). The refectory right in front of the church is not yet build. The houses below the wall are nowadays in ruins and overgrown by vegetation . Above these houses lies a building that is no longer there. This building will be replaced by the hospital building.

A couple of years later the hospital is build; the long white building on the left. The refectory (the extension in the centre of the monastery) is also completed. In 2009 the hospital building looked beautifull but was in a bad condtion. Bulgarian workers had their home there.In 2015 the building was completly renovated. Plastered chimneys and new wooden balkonies. It had also a new destination: guestquarters for the pilgrims.
         
The other side of the building in 2009 and in 2015.

Herman Voogd

This recent documentary from 2016 in Russian show us the main Russian settlements on Mount Athos. As predicted the renovation activities are well on its way in 2015, to be prepared for the celebrations in 2016 and the long expected visit of President Putin (in three days, May 28th!).

This what the makers say about their film: “In 2016 marks exactly one thousand years have passed since the first immigrants from Russia appeared on the Holy Mountain. In 1016 the abbot “monasteries of Russia” Gerasim subscribed to one of the Sviatohirsk documents with the abbots of other monasteries of Mount Athos. This document suggests that the ancient Russian monasticism represented on the Holy Mountain, at least a thousand years.”

Below I wil show you some stills from the documentary, with some beautiful shots made by a drone.Arsanas Sografou Bogoroditsa or Xylourgou: renovation activities!Paleo Monasterion: clearly the renovation of the buildings and churches are on its way A drone flies over the top!

Less interesting and overproduced (ánd with an irritating voice-over in Russian) is this recent documentary about 1000 years Russians on Athos: “Athos – Russian Legacy“, with many shots made with a drone. I would recommend the scene at 41’minutes: the drone in Esfigmenou!

Wim Voogd, 24/5 (next time some more interesting pictures/stills from this documentary)

The documentary I showed you in the last blog (1820) has some interesting scenes from unknown places on Athos. But first I will show you a few stills from Panteleimonos, starting with a picture from an (very) old monk, who looks familiar to me. Could he be one of last remaining Russian monks and the one I saw in 1980, when only eight monks (of which two Greek) were left in this huge monastery?This is Abbot Jeremiah. He will turn 101 in October.(thanks Alex)An old picture from Panteleimonos, a laboratory (is this the place where the monks developped their photo negatives?)Panteleimonos: a ssteamboat on shore with a sunroofPanteleimonos: monks in workwear, carrying baskets near large vessels – the harvest of grapes or olives?Panteleimonos: the construction of the pier.This is also a picture of the construction of the pier, but I found this one on another documentary, look here. The ship on background has still has sails, so must be an old picture!Skiti Andreou or Serail seen from a drone.Old Russian church – the kellion of St. John. Chrysostom,  belonging to Hilandar monastery (thanks Alex). I have seen this building a couple of times from a distance, but afterwards I could never figger out where to place it on a map, until I saw the following shots, made with a drone.Because when the drone flew over the ruined roof of the building, suddenly Skiti Andreou appeared in the background – on the left – Skiti Andreou , see the next picture:Skiti Andreou in the left corner. The marking point gave me the opportunity to have search on Google maps, and here it is, just above the word “on” in this text, not far from Maroudá kellion. Another Athos mystery is solved! In the grid below pictures from the interior:

But at the same time new mysteries arise, because of this building on the next picture:An unknown building with a small chapel, seen from a drone. Thanks to our reader Alex I now know this is Сhorny Vyr skete (could be translated as “black whirlpool”). It was founded by cossacks of the Zaporozhian Sich and is situated somewhere near Zografou monastery.There is well kept wide path covered with grass leading to this house/ruin:According to the (chesnut) trees and vegetation it should be somewhere in the neighbourhood of and above Karyes, in the direction North and far from the ridge path, is my guess. Who can help me? Thanks Alex who came to help me without a few hours!

The building is almost in ruins, but inside some the interior is left.

Yet another reason to go back to Athos soon and try to find this building. Next week our group of pilgrims will have our first meeting to discuss the itinerary for May 2017!

Wim Voogd, 26/5

Here on Google maps is the exact location of “cossack”-settlement, on the left from road with the name “skitis”. Wim, 27/5 13 h.

Stills from the live coverage on You Tube of the Putin visit to the Protaton, Karyes today.

President Vladimir Putin and Greek President Prokopis Pavlopoulos

Herman Voogd

“Putin on mount Athos sat on the throne of the Byzantine emperors, and declared the mountain a source of grace”.

Actually Vladimir Putin did not sit on on an emperor’s throne, but he was standing in the Protaton church and the throne is a bishop’s stasidion (a choir stall in an Orthodox church, thanks Alex for your comment).

This what Russian press says about his visit to mount Athos (quoted by “Interfax”):

Russian President Vladimir Putin during a visit to the Church of the Dormition of the Theotokos on mount Athos sat in the chair, which previously could only occupy the Byzantine emperors. Putin said about the need to “strengthen the spiritual power of all the Orthodox” and declared the Greek mountain “a source of well-being and grace” for the Russian Orthodox world.

Putin visited Athos, having participated in events in honor of the 1000th anniversary of the appearance of Russian monks on the Holy mountain. On the website of the Kremlin promptly a photo gallery [was shown] and Greek TV covered the trip live. Putin on mount Athos visited the Church of the assumption of the blessed virgin, where was celebrated a short prayer service, during which was prayed with supplication for the health, life and mercy the servant of God of Vladimir with the family and those around him, reports TASS. After this welcome address said the Holy mountain protopectin father Paul.

In response, Putin thanked the Ecumenical Patriarch and the primates of the Greek Orthodox Church for what they do to maintain relations with the Russian Orthodox Church and the Russian people. “I’m here for the second time and always feel a special warmth, kindness and the best attitude not only to me, as the head of the Russian state and the Russian people, the people as a whole”, – said the President of Russia.

He also noted that on the Holy mountain is very important and very necessary for the Orthodox world an act” associated with the strengthening of the moral foundations of society: “To a large extent you are the source of well-being and grace”.

The President noted that Russia and Athos have long had a close religious bond, the Athonite tradition played a significant role in the life of the Russian people, and in our days the interest of Russia to mount Athos continues unabated, and more recently with the active participation of the Russian Orthodox Church and philanthropists there is a restoration of historical sites associated with the Russian presence on the Holy Mountain.

Putin also visited mount Athos on Russian Svyato-Panteleymonov monastery (on the picture above with father Makary – wv).

The Russian President wished prosperity of the monastery, long life and good health to her brother: “I would Like to thank you Reverend father and the brethren of the monastery for the hospitality and the cordiality with which our meet here compatriots. You show us an example of following the principles of humanity, kindness and justice. These traditional and moral and cultural values are the measure of today’s moral and support for all of us and are important for the maintenance of peace, strengthen Russia, to preserve the unity of the Russian Orthodox Church”. (Quoted by “Interfax”.)

Putin with the Patriarch of Moscow Kirill in Panteleimonos.

These disturbing comments can also be found on the internet: “The Spiritual meaning of the visit. Both the Russian government and the Russian Church is now in need of spiritual support from the Athos elders. The State holds back the tide of the godless Western liberalism, which increases the pressure on Russia in all directions and unambiguously threatens to start a direct military conflict. The Church wages a spiritual war, and is preparing to confront the ecumenical and Renovationist trend at the upcoming Pan-Orthodox Council in late July”.

Wim Voogd, 1/6

We left Stavonikita a bit against our will. We would have loved to stay a candlelit night here. But it was full so we made a reservation for Iviron, the next stop. A last view of the well restored Monastery with its age-old cypress, its terraced vegetable garden and its bougainvillea covered entrance. In the garden grows mostly cabbage. Grapes form a shady tunnel entrance. In the distance the outer world; the island Thassos can be seen.
We followed the up-and-down-monopati along the coast. We were getting tired, coming from Vatoupediou. Going up even the smallest hills gave more and more resistance. Going down, a certain stiffness in the knees reduced speed.

The sturdy tower of Kaliagra became visible on the edge of the landmass. The wind rushed the waves to the beach. The sheer beauty of the scene made us forget our sore feet and knees. It is not surprising that, despite the dark clouds hanging over the holy mountain, many people consider Athos as close as a living man can get to Paradise.
The narrow monopati asks an accurate balance. The splashing azure waves welcome you with pleasure. Sometimes you can read reports of people who disappeared on Athos. This could be a place to vanish into thin air.

Kaliagra’s tower and the arsanas of Koutloumousiou are described by Wim in 2011 in this weblog post.

The approach to the tower from the covered coastal path that leads to a sandy beach. We took a rest at the tower, ate some power bars and drank the last bit of water. It wouldn’t be far to Iviron. Our goal was already in sight. On the beach there was a lot of rubbish, like plastic children’s shoes. All the way from the other world, Thassos.
The salted branch in the foreground rested on a cement wall as a gift from a rough sea.
The tower of the arsanas of Iviron, in the background, was the goal for the day. One more stretch to go. That day I would register an all-time high on my step counter: 28.999 steps. We, as travelling pilgrims, enjoy the endurance and physical sacrifices it takes to walk from one to an other Monastery.

A very strange storage tower, lead in wood, close to the arsanas of Iviron. In the background Kaliagra’s tower and further away the wonderful Monastery of Stavronikita.
Piles of freshly harvested timber lean against the coastal tower of Iviron, waiting to be shipped to the outer world. An important source of income for the monastery of the Iberians. Not the Spaniards or the Portuguese but the Georgians, the second Christian nation. The monastery was founded in the tenth century by a warrior monk called Thornic (Thornikios) and born Grdzelidze. But that is a story for another time.
The tower of Iviron as Cuville saw it at the end of the Great War in 1918.
Photos and text
Bas Kamps

Prince Charles in 2004 burning a candle at a funeral in Colciu, a Romanian settlement near Vatopedi (Photo: pemptousia.ro). Read here why Charles is so occupied with orthodoxy and Athos. (thanks to Gerard Koolschijn and friend).

Herman Voogd

Herman Voogd

After we installed ourselves in the guestroom at Iviron we relaxed for a while on our beds in the narrow white washed room with a very high ceiling. It had been a long day walking, starting in Vatopediou. When I looked out of the window I saw a warm evening light. So I went out to enjoy the tranquillity of the evening and to take some pictures. Except for a worker in a white T-shirt, who I would find later, there was nobody in the court yard. The monks use the few hours between dinner and bed time to retreat quietly in their cells.
One of the towers in the evening light, taken from the stairs that leads to the guesthouse. The long building with the lead roof is the trapeza.
The original name of the monastery was Clementos, states Della Dora. The donations from the emperor of Byzantium, Basil II, made it possible to enlarge the older Monastery, so it was renamed: Iviron. A controversial figure, that emperor Basil II; he still rouses controversy in the region: loved by the Greek but hated by the Bulgarians.
The building in the front fits in very well. As if it has been there for ages. 
A picture, taken from Graham Speakes eminent book “Mount Athos, Renewal in paradise”, shows differently; the new part of the kitchen was built in recent times. Architecturally it tells the eternal story. I have to apologize that I have used the picture without permission. I hope I will be forgiven, sooner or later.

The draperies at the entrance of the baptistery, the viale, hang down naturally as if they are made from soft cloth instead of cool marble.A closer look up to the bell-tower. The bell can be operated from the ground floor by a rope hanging down. Just left from the tower the entrance to the trapeza is situated, as always right opposite the katholikon.
Iviron has a time measurement of its own. An old Georgian system of keeping time. At sunrise it’s twelve o’clock. An antique inheritance from the Zoroastrians, named after the prophet Zoroaster also known as Zarathustra.
Even in the court yard of Iviron piles of timber can be found. But most of it lays near the pier.
A worker in a white T-shirt was busy carrying the beams to the cellar, probably the winter supply. He was the only living soul on the premises. The northwestern walls of the monastery have not been restored yet and display a wonderful warm glow in the evening sun. Many of the windows are broken and transparent plastic is put in its place.
Even here modern air-conditioners arrive. That is probably quite sensible for the kitchen, which is the left building.
An overview of the katholikon that is dedicated to the Dormition of the Theotokos. The first church was built in the end of the 10th century. It was changed in the early 11th century. And it was rebuild in 1513. The exonarthex has half round windows. Young trees are planted in front of the windows. In the brickwork many remarkable ceramic tiles can be seen as a decoration. As Norwich puts it bluntly: “….. the church is a sixteenth-century survival of some of the fires and a few of the restorations.”
A sign pointing to the guesthouse is attached to the cypress. Many times an old and very happy monk sits on the bench leaning on his walking stick. He makes jokes about the Pope who he considers the Antichrist. To give more strength to his arguments he slaps the stick to the ground. At least that was what he did during an earlier visit. I hope he will be around during our next visit.The top of a low pillar with an abstract never ending pattern in front of the Panagia Portaitissa. A separate square and a curly maze like figure going up endlessly (for the optimists) and going down (for the other people). A seal of infinity.

Text and pictures (except for the picture taken from Speake’s book).
Bas Kamps