When we walked around the monastery of Chilandariou after a short stay at guesthouse, details caught my eye. Stony details to be precise, in the walls and sometimes on the floors. I would like to share these elements with you, dear reader.Just opposite of the main entrance of the monastic complex lays this field of bumpy stones. A cat had found a nice spot to dose off. He had his eyes closed. To the left is a source. Metal cups wait for thirsty pilgrims who want to refresh themselves with Holy Water. The blue shrine is left empty. There is nothing to venerate there. But it has a beauty of its own. To the right a Serbian Cross guards the entrance of the Monastery.The outer wall of the katholikon has many carved stones. The stones closest to the curved windows are carved as ivy. Like interconnected French ‘fleurs-de-lis’, lilies. The other stones show abstract figures. The big round stone in the middle contains a flower. A closer look learns that there are more organic figures behind the plaster. The little head in the middle is odd. I have the impression that these stones are of pre-Christian origin.
The double-headed eagle. Symbol of Mount Athos, the Greek Orthodox church, Serbia and indeed much more. First used as a symbol in Mosul by the Seljuk Turks in 1058, so I learned. And two hundred years later, in 1250, by the Holy Roman Empire (that medieval empire in the centre of Europe). And then from Byzantium to Russia and much further, in fact you can find it in flags and coats of arms all over Europe. Even soccer clubs in the Netherlands have it as symbol in their flag. It would be a nice idea for a historian to explore the geographic spreading of the bicephalous eagle in time and space.
Even the inside floors are nicely decorated by skilful monks. In Chilandariou I found two different patterns. The first with a flowery pattern in black and white stones.  The second with a hexagram nowadays known as the star of David.

I found a picture from 1964 by A. Costa of the same floor with a sitting monk with a walking stick.
Two interesting animal heads enclose this window. The kind of animal is not so clear to me. It could be lions. Or maybe guarding dogs. It might be mythical creatures. Anyway a rather rare figuration. Pre-Christian as well, I suppose.
This bas-relief can be found in the wall of the katholikon. It has flower motives as well as curved, wave like, figures. There are two sets of three pillars. It is well known that on Athos there were several villages in the pre-Christian era. Sometime you can see pillars and other remnants. This might be pre-Christian as well. Pilgrim Herman did some research on that issue before. Herodotos (450 -420 BC) wrote about it:  “Here, upon this isthmus where Athos ends, is Sand, a Greek city. Inside of Sand, and upon Athos itself, are a number of towns, which Xerxes was now employed in disjoining from the continent: these are Dium, Olophyxus, Acrothoum, Thyssus, and Cleonae. Among these cities Athos was divided.” But neither of these cities is close to where Chilandariou is now, according to most of  the maps.  Although according to another map (the big one that we got in the grape yards of E. Tsantali) the ancient ruins of Olophyxus can be found between Chilandariou and Esfigmenou, close to the Miloutin tower. So I think it is highly probable that the pre-Christian stones have been reused for the katholikon.

Bas Kamps

In the outer ring of the courtyard we found a covered space with old murals. Frescoes that are in a bad condition. The heads and especially the eyes of the saints are badly damaged. Sometimes the heads and eyes of the saints are much more damaged than the surrounding scenes. There are several more places on Athos where you can find damaged frescoes. As if iconoclasts expressed their anger. Or maybe a confused person who was horrified by the faces of the saints.This saints mantle has almost vanished into thin air. The copper bell hangs quietly from the ceiling. How different it must have been when that blistering, devastating fire started.Two demons from hell come out of a whales’ mouth. One is shooting with his bow and arrow.

The Serbian monastery of Chilandariou was founded is 1198. According to Graham Speake it housed ninety monks in 1204. In the fourteenth century it had become a state within a state. With many possessions, dependencies and villages over which it ruled. In the fifteenth century it grew even bigger to 600 villages and 180.000 vineyards. Even today Chilandariou holds 20% of the land on Athos.

The katholikon is rebuild by the Serbian king Milutin in the 13^th century, a century after the foundation. He also constructed the large tower, in the heyday of Serbian power, when the Serbs ruled Athos. Chilanariou has an association with fire. There was a disastrous fire in 1722. And another one in 1924. And more recently a disastrous fire in 2004.At first you think it must be Saint George, slaying the dragon. But on the ground is not a dragon but a human being. He is hit in his heart. Blood is squirting out of him. The clothes and helmet look very Roman.A peaceful corner of the monastery with scattered leaves laurel leaves on the bench.Three saints holding boats made from a cloth with many people in them. “Boat refugees”, one of the pilgrims remarked. Indeed, a new perspective when you look at it with a contemporary eye. But the need to be saved is a common line from every perspective.

This will be my last contribution in 2015. Next year we will continue our journey.

Photos and text

Bas Kamps

After arriving in Dafni on September 20th and the bustrip to Karyes, we went to skiti Andreou, where we would spend the night. We reveiced a traditional welcome with coffee, a light red Tsipourou with a special fruit taste, loukoumi and fresh water, together with two pilgrims from Rumenia. But after checking in we had no time to waste, because I wanted to pay a visit to the nearby kelli Maroudá.Leaving the guesthouse in skiti Andreou.Not far outside the skete, on the main road to Dafni, you can find these signs. Unfortunately there was no sign pointing in the direction of Maroudá, so we continued to walk the road uphill.Later we found out that we had missed a path on our right hand (at O1), as you can see on the trail below:We took the the short route on our way back.

The long route was 2.51 km and took us 37 minutes. The short route on our way back was only 1.61 km long and took us 22 minutes.First you will see this magnificant panoramic view of Karyes.On our way to Maroudá we had to ask a monk of Agios Nikodimos to help us find our way. This cell is at spot O2 on the picture above – the Long Route (NB. on the Road map this cell nr 27 is called  Aghia Triada.Opposite of Agios Nikodimos: another large cell (on the Road map nr 26: the cell of Panaghia).Detail of the Road map 2007: I added nr 83 my self, because it is not on the map, the cell of Maroudá (Ioannis Theologos).Here the main road continues with a turm to the left (towards Xiropotamou and Dafni). The road that goes to the right leads to Maroudá (and all the way to Vatopedi) – see just below the letter ‘Y’ of the word Karyes on the map above.Not far the sharp turn in the road there was a path leading to a well.And then – finally – a first sign with Maroudá shows up: only 1 km to go.The iron gates that lead to the cell: at first the place does not look very interesting, when you enter the cell form this side.But on entering the premises, you’ll find yourself in a small paradise. Beauty is everywhere! And not long after this moment another surprize was waiting for me (although I knew that my Athos friend from Holland, Jan Paul ten Bruggencate, stayed at Maroudá, who I never had met before and only talked to on telephone…..).

Next time more about this meeting and the big surprize I got!

Wim Voogd, 27-12

On our 2015 trip we approached the Holy Mountain by boat from Ierissos . We sat foot on land at the Vatopedi harbour (arsanas). The boat docked at the peer you see above. This early photograph is taken in 1870.  While standing on the peer I made some pictures of the boathouses and storagebuildings on the waterfront.
Vatopedi boathouses.

Boathouses with on top of the hill the ruins of the Athonite Academy.

The storagebuildings lower part is build in 1820, the top of this building is from a later date (after 1870) as the other type of bricks and the vintage photo show.

                         
The main entrance of the storagebuilding on the other side. An ancient stone with a bull was used to decorate the wall. Maybe this part came from the pre-christian city of  Charadria (mentioned by Strabon) which was probably located near Vatopedi.

Again Vatopedi in 1870 with the large boathouse and chapel. In 2009 I photographed it from the road.

The boathouse and chapel in 2009 were almost in ruins. But in 2015  they were restoring the place.

2015: The building are being restored.

Text and photo’s Herman Voogd

We wish you a Happy New Year with the hope that you will have many blessings in the year to come.

Our wish for 2016: be tolerant to others, this promises a brighter tomorrow, rich with the blessings of love, joy, warmth, and laughter.
Vatopedi boathouses in the winter

And thanks for visiting our weblog in 2015: more than 35.000 from 146 countries did so with 190.000 views: these numbers are incredible, it makes it worthwhile to go on!

Wim Voogd,  Herman Voogd and Bas Kamps

31/12/2015

When leaving Chilandariou for Esfigmenou you first come across the cemetery with some temporary black crosses. According to Athonian custom the remains are gathered in an ossarium after being buried for in the ground two years. The design of the red grid of the chapel struck me.This is one of the last views of Chilandariou, looking back, when we left the monastery. It is a short, relatively flat and easy hike to Esfigmenou on the dirt road. Here was still a part of the old cobbled pave way along the dirt road.The approach to Esfigmenou from the dirt road. It looks like an impressive medieval complex with two strong defensive towers. The first mention of Esfigmenou was in a letter dating from 1016. But most of the current structures date from the first part of the nineteenth century.

This old print shows the situation to land before the pier was built. (Picture from the site of Esfigmenou).The day before, we already saw the grey complex in the distance from the water, with its abundant green backdrop. The boat did not call at Esfigmenou and it did not enter the bay. So we saw it from quite a distance. Now it is time for a closer look.And there it is; the (in)famous sign of Esfigmenou: “Orthodoxy or Death”. Esfigmenou holds an ultra-Orthodox stand. They oppose to the ecumenical idea of talks with other Christian churches, and especially the Roman Catholic church. Therefore they like to call themselves zealots. They argue that there is only one church and only one baptism. The mere idea of more than one church, of more than one possible interpretation of the bible, is an absolute heresy for them. Therefore they state that the idea of ecumenical approach and Orthodoxy are mutually exclusive. There is a lot to tell and read about these issues. And the struggles, fights and isolation of Esfigmenu. I found this story interesting. But there are many more to be told. I find it painful that in this peaceful part of the world a conflict like this continues and that it could not be solved since the other nineteen monasteries expelled Esfigmenou in 1972.

Above the banner, behind the last patches of ox-blood red paint, are the guestrooms.The view of Esfigmenou from the pier. The building looks grim and grey. A structure to defend one selves. It looks closed and unwelcoming at first. But the monks received us very warmly and full of joy. In the guesthouse we rested for a while and we were given all that we needed.The community of Esfigmenou is, because of its isolation, very self-sufficient. They have a large vegetable garden and they do fish according to the nets on the quay. A fifty meters from the pier we saw a monk in greyish clothes fishing with a rod.We thought we could enter through this old gate at the waterfront as well. But we were mistaken. The monastery can only be entered through the main gate. We saw interesting remains, pillars of an older building.

Close to the gate lay a dead rat. A kitten approached it carefully, smelled intensely but did not touch of eat anything. This clever cat did not poison itself.The view through the screen from the guesthouse with the road to Chilandariou to the left. An old fire-engine is parked forever on the road.

Photos and text

Bas Kamps

On Sunday September 20th 2015 a special occasion took place. After entering the beautiful courtyard of Maroudá we received a warm welcome by father Makarios. My Athos friend Jan Paul ten Bruggencate took this picture in 2011. “Jan Paul is still asleep, doing an afternoon nap”, father Makarios told me. He invited us in and asked us to have a drink.While looking around and enjoying the view of the well kept buildings and gardens of kelli Maroudá, suddenly an unknown person came to me and shook hands. “Hello”, he said, and he hucked me as if we were old friends, “I am Giannis!” After a few seconds I realized who this ‘stranger’ was: my fellow blogger and friend from Greece, Giannis Koutsiotis, the author of the famous weblog Agioritikes Mnimes !  I have had lots of contact in written word during many years, but now finally we met in person. What a surprize and what a happy meeting, it felt as we knew each other already for years!

My friends and I were invited to sit and have drink. In the meanwhile Jan Paul woke up and the second happy meeting was about to occur: also with Jan Paul I have had many contacts by telephone and email in the past years, but I never met him in person! The meeting with Jan Paul, who woke up earlier to meet me! We went outside to enjoy the view from a balcony. Jan Paul meets pilgrim Gert JanThe view from the balcony of Maroudá, with skiti Andreou in the backgroundSkiti Andreou seen from Maroudá Jan Paul and me,dicussing the different settlements lying belowA good conversation, a cup of coffee and water, a beautiful view and good friends, do you need more? While chatting and enjoying good company the cook of Father Makarios prepaired a meal for us:Without any doubt one the best meals I ever had on the Holy Mountain: a  slightly fat white fish with a lovely soup, red wine and bread – together with pilgrims Gert Jan and Jitze (in a great trapeza with fine paintings). The kitchen of Maroudá

Next time some more pictures of the fine paintings in the trapeza (photos: Jitze Bakker and mine)

Wim Voogd, 12/1/2016

The monastery of Esfigmenou with a monk fishing.

When we take a closer look we see that he is fishing directly under the ” Orthodoxy or Death”  sign.
                                         
In the waters off Mount Athos there is a special fisheries regime, under which fishing is prohibited in the marine zone of 500 meters around the coast, except for monks, who for centuries fish with the same artisanal and sustainable fishing practices. In this way, the monks have, for centuries, ensured the sustainable management of their food supply. This text is from the Institute of Marine Conservation Archipelagos in Greece. This institute warned the authorities in 2014 that on-going incidents of illegal and destructive fishing practices taking place in the waters off Mount Athos. This mainly take place in the waters around the southern tip of Mount Athos.

                           
I hope that this illegal fishing now has stopped and that the monks can continue fishing with their rods and small nets in a sea full of fish.

Pictures and text Herman Voogd

The guesthouse where we received so much hospitality from the friendly monks of Esfigmenou. After the common welcoming drinks the guest monk asked if we wanted to eat something. He brought a full vegetarian meal, that really tasted well. The Agia Sophia in Constantinople is a picture you encounter quite often on the holy mountain. Not surprisingly; it is  the seat of the Patriarch since the 6th century.  The inner courtyard with the catholicon. The black flag from Esfigmenou, the flag of the zealots, is waving from the entrance tower.

                      
Opposite the main entrance a monk kindly invited us to take pictures in the inner courtyard. So we didn’t feel awkward taking the following pictures. From the entrance you see the well and the font or viale. It was built in 1815 by the abbot Euthymios. The font has eight marble columns that hold a dome. A closer look at the font. The columns are connected by sculpted marble metopes, so I learned.The Esfigmenou font used at Ascension. The procession (in 1978) heads to the font behind for the blessing of waters. This ends the all-night vigil. The monastery is dedicated to the Ascension.Grapes, ready to be eaten, are hanging from a pergola on the inner square looking towards the catholicon.The mosaic floor near the main entrance. The nicely coloured cement between the stones drew my attention. They have completed the floor with much attention, care and love.
From the ceiling of the dome God looks down upon us mortals.

It was a pity we couldn’t see the Napoleon Bonapartes tent, which is kept as a relic here. It is only shown on Ascension day, when the procession is there. So it was time to move on. We had a long way to go to Vatopediou.

Photos and text

Bas Kamps

We get different reports from yesterday, the 18th of January, and today, that Athos was covered by a white blanket of snow (Chilandariou).

Father Eugenios (Nea Skiti) sent me this picture, taken from Skiti Xenofontos:The Lavra weather station shot this video today, 19/1/2016:

Here is a screenshot of today’s weather condition, with the forecast below it: this weekend more snow is expected!

Will it invite the monks of Gregoriou to have another snowball fight ? – see “The battle of Gregoriou“, posted one year ago!

Wim, 19/1

The almost completely restored Russian monastery of Panteleimonos will be the place where the festivities 1016 – 2016 will take place. The first Russian monastery on Mount Athos was founded during the rule of Holy Prince Vladimir. The earliest written mention of it dates back to February 1016. This photo taken in 2015.
This photo was taken in 1917, the year of the revolution in Russia and the start of the decline of the monastery. But after the fall of Sovjet Russia religion came back and  the monastery gradually became popular again.
                                                  
In 2015 Russian pilgrims had already t-shirts with 1016 -2016 printed on it.                              
For the special celebration in 2016 ruins are restored, bricks are replaced, balconies are build, roads are paved,  windmils and solarcells are placed and house are rebuild.
There are even mules now to help the pilgrims with their luggage. Here they are walking freely in the dry riverbed beside the monastery not far from Silouans watermill.

This seems like a big crowd on the pier but I suspect there will be many more Russian pilgrims this year on Mount Athos. But there will be enough accomodation because the guesthouses are huge.
Detail of one of the freshly painted churches with the Virgin in blue.

Text and photos by Herman Voogd. Black and white photo by Millet.

The most beautiful aqueduct on the Athos peninsula is the one that leads to the monastery of Simonaspetras.
                                   
The Russian pilgrim Barsky made a nice drawing in 1744 of the monastery and the aqueduct. On the right image the aqueduct seen from the inside of the monastery with the balcony of the guestroom in front.

The aqueduct of Simonospetras seen from the ferry with Gregoriou on the foreground.

Entering the Pantocratoros monastery and looking in the direction of Sk. Profitiou Eliou a small aqueduct appears. Athough I am not sure , I think it transported the water from the hills to the monastery.

The Pantocratoros aqueduct in a small valley besides the dirtroad.In 1744 Barsky also saw this small waterway and he drew it on the exact spot were it is today.
This aqueduct was the watersupplier for the Athonite Academy above Vatopedi. It is now in ruins.
                                        
All these beautifull structures are not working anymore but in the case of this aquduct it is clear that the source is still supplying water because plastic pipes are doing the job now.

The aqueduct of Stavronikita is perhaps the most stunning of them all.

A rather unknown aqueduct is the one in the vicinity of the Iviron monastery which I didn’t see for myself yet.

Herman Voogd,  text and photo’s

This is the first episode of seven of the  Athos trip Goulven Le Goff and his brother Ivonig made in May 2015. They visited all 20 monasteries in one week.  Text and photo’s by G. and I. Le Goff.

This map sums up our trip. With the exception of the tracks between Great Lavra and Karakalou and between Philotheou and Karyes, marked with dotted lines, we walked everything, most of it on marvellous paths. The only parts of dirt road we had to go through are those between Pantokratoros and Vatopedi and between Dochiariou and St Panteleimonos.We reached Ouranoupolis on May 21, the very day of its annual feast. Local inhabitants had organized a party with some traditional music and a free meal for everyone.

Next morning, our luck disappeared when we learnt that our boat to Simonopetras, the Mikra Agia Anna, was broken since several days. Fortunately, there was a last boat going to Daphni this day, and even if it was full, we were authorized to board.
From Daphni, we took  another boat to Simonopetras, reaching the arsanas two hours later then we planned.
                            
We agreed that the path from the harbour to the monastery is a perfect start to enter Mount Athos, because the path was absolutely stunning with a continuous view on the magnificent Simonopetra monastery. On this first time we were very surprised by the warm welcome. Later we experienced this hospitality in all monasteries.
We took some time to enjoy the Simonopetra archondariki and the view from it on the coast and the countryside.
                    
We continued and followed the path to Grigoriou which was is a little bit more technical but also marvellous. We soon reached Grigoriou monastery.                        While Simonopetra didn’t have a lot of pilgrims, Grigoriou wasn’t empty, as twenty pilgrims waited the vesperal office. After talking with some of them, we went up a path to the Grigoriou cave.Gregoriou’s cave.

On our way to Dyonisiou, we saw several cliffs ; This waterfall we found the most beautiful of our whole trip.
The first sight of the Dyonisiou monastery is another unforgettable moment of this day.
  The monk managing the pilgrims had given our beds to other guests, maybe because we were a little bit late. It was full with pilgrims which is not surprising because there are dozens of them sleeping every day in this monastery, the fifth most important in the peninsula.We told the monk that we had our own stuff to sleep on the ground and he seemed to agree, but another one asked us to wait. He found in the attic two makeshift beds and put them in a corridor.After the dinner, we had enough time to visit the monastery ; the place we appreciate the most was the cloister around the katholikon, with its intriguing fresco’s and its ground made of stones.

Text and photo’s Goulven Le Goff, Ivonig Le Goff, some editing by Herman Voogd

This is the second episode of seven of the  Athos trip done by Goulven Le Goff and his brother Ivonig from Rennes, France made in May 2015. They visited all 20 monasteries in one week and stayed overnight at the summit.  Text and photo’s by G. and I. Le Goff.

We expected -rightfully- the second day to be the most difficult of our trek, with more than 2200 meters of positive elevation and a finish on the summit of the peninsula. So we woke up at sunrise, and after a smoke on this peaceful balcony (compared to the crowded one in the archondariki), we walked to Paulou monastery.
                            We had to cross the Dionysiou cemetery, where we found, stacked behind a grid, loads of skulls of dead monks, with the date of their death written on their foreheads.
The path to Paulou is quite the most dangerous we walked. Sometimes its width is less than one meter, with shrubs on and a three meters gap on its side.

We reached Paulou as several groups of pilgrims were leaving the monastery on their way to the mountain ; Later in the week we would encounter them again. In Dionysiou, we didn’t get a meal in the morning, only dry bread with olives in the archondariki, so we hoped to eat in Paulou. Sadly it was too late, the refectory was already closed. We had to pick up some food from our own reserves.

A last look on the Paulou valley and we started the long climb to the summit.
Soon we crossed the Skiti Agia Annis, when we had some rest before the most difficult part of the climb : more than 1000 meters of elevation until the Panagia, with a huge percentage.
Somewhere above Sk. Anna, we overtook the Russian pilgrims we met at Paulou. None of them had specific hiking shoes and pants, which was quite impressive considering the difficulty of the climb. Further, we saw other pilgrims, Russians, Bulgarians, Serbians, Romanians and even a Belarusian but very few Greeks, though they are the majority of the pilgrims you encounter in the monasteries.

After a long walk under the full sun, which Ivonig doesn’t bear too much, we entered the first of three forest sections, when we had a little sleep before restarting the walk.

Soon we got out the last forest and reached a section with shrubs, bushes and a constant view on the summit. The landscape changed progressively until it looked like an alpine one.

The Panagia shelter at 1500 meters, where most of the pilgrims sleep before starting the hike to the summit the next morning, is a dirty place ; even its water is suspicious. We ate a snack, rested for a while and then we left this disgusting place to reach the summit.
On the windy track, we encountered workers with mule coming from the top, where they were building a new chapel. They advised us against the idea to sleep there, because according to them, the chapel wasn’t open yet.In fact the chapel who was under construction contained at least six beds, but when we reached the summit together with a Belarusian and two Athenians (noticeable on the photo), the monk sleeping there with three workers didn’t allow us to use the two last ones. Not really christian !

So we had to to sleep outside, in the only place covered from the powerful wind. Sadly, the evening was colder than expected. We would have suffered severe colds in our tiny and thin sleeping bags if luckily three Bulgarians, who arrived one hour later and who also planned to sleep on the top, found some spare sleeping bags in a box outside the chapel. Again there was an argument with the monk because over his denial to welcome us inside.

Here are the three Bulgarians, the only real hikers we met on our trip, watching with us the sunset.  After that we slept in rather good conditions.

Text and photo’s by Goulven Le Goff, Ivonig Le Goff, some editing by Herman Voogd

This is the third episode of seven of the  Athos trip done by Goulven Le Goff and his brother Ivonig from Rennes, France made in May 2015. They visited all 20 monasteries in one week.  The descent to Lavra.

This whole day we descended to the monastery of Great Lavra. We also visited Prodromou which is not on the map.
We had to get there early in order to wash our two spare clothes and to have the time to dry them before the sunset, so we left the summit very early, as two Bulgarians were yet asleep under the chapel’s scaffolding.
We reached Panagia again, with several pilgrims who spent the night there with the aim to finish the climb in the morning.
        Up to the Romanian skiti of Prodromou, there is not one meter of dirtroad on the long way from the Mount Athos summit to Great Lavra. A well kept path going through an ancient forest containing gigantic trees.
      Before reaching Great Lavra, we visited the Athanasius cave and the adjacent Romanian skite of Prodromou. Its katholikon looks very different from Greek ones.
      
From Prodromou the only way to go to Great Lavra seems to be a dirtroad, with a finish on a path. Great Lavra is the oldest Athonian monastery and you can feel this while watching its enclosure, walking on the courtyard and feeling the atmosphere. Even if it remained the first in importance, its peripheral position seems to dissuade pilgrims to visit it : we were only with a dozen sleeping men there this night.
      As soon as we got our accomodation, the first real one since the beginning of our journey, we did the laundry and hung our clothes outside the room, with the agreement of the monks.
     The Great Lavra courtyard is full of ancient buildings, churches and chapels ; here are an ancient cellar and the refectory.
As in other monasteries, it is not possible to take photos inside the katholikon, but we could get some of the narthex, with its typical stain-glassed windows.
                                                 Here are two details of the narthex : a wrought iron door and a wallpainting depicting hell.                                The three bulgarians which we slept with on the summit joined us in the evening. The one wearing glasses was a pilgrim, the two others were members of the FOMA organization, working hard to update the paths.

Text and photo’s Goulven Le Goff, Ivonig Le Goff, some editing by Herman Voogd

This is the fourth episode of seven of the  Athos trip done by Goulven Le Goff and his brother Ivonig from Rennes, France made in May 2015. They visited all 20 monasteries in one week.  
This day was the most unpredictable since we didn’t manage to phone Pantokratoros to book a room. But above all because it was the fourth day, the day that we needed to renew our diamonitirion.
We read on internet that the office in Karyes closed at noon, which made it complicated to visit Karakalou and Philotheou before, even if the taxibus to those monasteries left Great Lavra at 6:45 PM. Morever, Austrian tourists we had met in Prodromos had warned us that the office was fully closed on monday. Discussing that, one of the Bulgarian hikers told us it didn’t matter as nobody cared about this paper in the peninsula. He seemed right since we were not asked to show it in Dionysiou or Great Lavra, but we were not too confident ; It were justified doubts, because subsequently, we discovered that the diamonitirion is strictly required to get a room in Pantokratoros or Esfigmenou. Finally we decided not to listen to the Bulgarian’s advices, and anxiously hoping to reach Karyes before 12PM to find an open office, we entered the bus to Karakalou.
Unfortunately, this trip with the taxibus was the slowest we ever experienced ; it was at least 8PM when it dropped us off near Karakalou.
We arrived late, but still we took some time to visit the monastery. Karakalou is my favourite monastery, whereas my brother Ivonig prefers Iviron or Xenophontos.
                     
Walking an unspoilt path, we entered Philotheou after 9PM. An old and friendly monk led us to the katholikon, the only one we visited beside the vesperal service, while explaining us the doctrinal difference between orthodoxy and catholicism in a mix of English, French and Greek. Before leaving, as we were telling him we had to reach Karyes before noon, which became quite impossible to walk, he called a passing monk who was going to Karyes  in an old truck with three pilgrims. After a discussion about the fact that there was no place left at the frontseats of the vehicle, this latter monk agreed to put us at the back, next to six gas bottles which were not properly closed.
                    
We tried to stay seated, but the track was in extremely poor condition, making it quite difficult. The scary part was that the gas bottles were constantly shaking, to such an extent that we soon smelled gas. Part funny, part frightening, the travel ended well in Karyes, where we took a photo of the truck in the mainstreet before going to the Pilgrim office, the Holy Administration building.
We found the Holy Administration closed, even it wasn’t 12 AM yet ; the Austrians were right, opening hours are only on tuesday, thursday and saturday morning. When we watched inside the building, we spotted a civil guard. We knocked on the window untill he opened it, enabling us to ask about our diamonitirion renewal. At first he was suspicous, but when we told him we came from the summit of Mount Athos, he seemed quite impressed, took our papers and came back two minutes later with a two weeks extension.

That left the problem of the accomodation in Pantokratoros, but a monk named Father Jacques whom we asked about the direction to Koutloumousiou solved everything. Recognizing our French accent, he told us he was also from France. While asking about our trip, he learnt we didn’t manage to phone Pantokratoros. « No problem », he said, « Currently there is a traditional weekly council gathering five emissaries from the five main monasteries in the Holy Administration building. The one from Pantokratoros is Father Theophilos, a great friend of mine, speaking fluently French. Let’s go there and we will meet him as soon as the council ended !»
Following Father Jacques, we get back to the Holy administration building, entered inside and encountered several monks who just ended their meeting. One of them was Father Theophilos, a great scholar with an angelic face who called the cell phone of a Pantokratoros monk and booked us two beds there.

We thanked Father Theophilos, listened carefully a Father Jacques’ moving preach and walked to Koutloumousiou. We were very relieved that it worked out so well.

At Koutloumousiou begins a nice wide footpath to Iviron.We had to stand in line to see the famous Panagia Portaitissa icon in this very chapel.
                           From the arsanas of Iviron there is a great view of the coast with Stavronikita in the background.
                            Walking an easy path, we soon reached Stavronikita.
                                           A short visit to the courtyard of Stavronikita, we took a photo next to the pictoresque aqueduct and we went on our way to Pantokratoros. On the path, we met one of the Bulgarians we slept with on the summit of Mount Athos, with two older bulgarian hikers, also members of the FOMA organization ; one of them was a great scholar.The arrival at Pantokratoros ended a day full of adventures.
          Like most of the monasteries, Pantokratoros goes through some huge renovations. We can see that on the photo of its courtyard. The bench on the left is the one where Father Theophilos had a long talk with us after sunset. He was ready to welcome us in his monastery, as long as we wanted to. Just after the bench, on the very left is the access to the accomodation, with a good shower system, the last we used as there was no shower, no hot water and even no electricity in the two last monasteries we slept in.

Text and photo’s Goulven Le Goff, Ivonig Le Goff, some editing by Herman Voogd

Day 5 was another unpredictable one as we wanted to spend the night in the monastery of Esfigmenou, where the monks, amongst other things,  broke the relationship with the Patriarch of Constantinople and since then lived self-sufficiently. When we tried to phone them, using a number found on internet, it was a monk from Karyes, nor from the monastery itself that answered, and he told us we couldn’t join them and even get there because they were fanatics. Later, Father Jacques ensured us that they were dirty. Other monks in Pantokratoros suggested us not to go there.

Those allegations didn’t stop us, they even made us more curious, but we didn’t know if the monks of Esfigmenou would welcome pilgrims, especially non-orthodox. That’s why we wanted to go there early, in order to pursue our  hike to Hilandariou in case of a refusal. Once more, we left a monastery before the morning meal, and since we didn’t have anymore snacks , we didn’t eat anything till the evening.
The track joining Pantokratoros to Vatopedi is disappointing: almost only dirt roads. On the photo, one of the sections with a path.
Despite this, we appreciated the landscape around Vatopedi, when we encountered a monk working as a peasant.

The huge size of the monastery of Vatopedi surprised us. We had to queue to enter it, and we met in the courtyard more pilgrims than in all the other monasteries together.
                    Here is the katholikon of Vatopedi; the outside walls are covered with paintings.
                   
The path between Vatopedi and Esfigmenou is one of our favourite monopatia. After an average first part along the sea, you have to climb the hills separating the two monasteries areas on an uninterrupted cobbled road during more than an hour.  
At the end of the climb, a little bit before the pass, this cobbled road overhangs the landscape, with a panoramic view over the forest.

The final part on dirt roads  is not that beautiful. But the view on Esfigmenou is great.
The first monk we discovered in the area was working hard in his farm. In the monastery courtyard, we met other monks repairing the katholikon roof, cooking, embroidering. When the vesperal service ended, we saw forty to fifty monks entering the refectory: most of their clothes were dirty, like if they worked hard all day long. All those elements seemed to confirm the fact that those monks were quite self-sufficient, even though two of the people working on the katholikon roof were workers not monks.
Another thing going towards this conclusion was the meal we ate there, far better than in other monasteries. The tzatziki, the spinach pie, the vegetables stew, the wine, everything was exquisite and fresh, like if it came only from their own local fields.

As soon as we entered the monastery of Esfigmenou, we were asked to show our diamonitirions. Three different monks controlled them one after another. When the third one learnt we were not orthodox, he warned us courteously that we were not allowed to watch the vesperal service, nor to eat with other pilgrims. It’s a pity because from what we heard outside, their sung prayers were quite impressive. These monks seemed as devout as they were studious.There was no shower in this monastery, so we had to wash ourselves in a sink with cold water. The room is the best we slept in: a peaceful place, with a panoramic view on the sea through large windows, lightened at night with an oil lamp.

Text and photo’s Goulven Le Goff, Ivonig Le Goff, some editing by Herman Voogd

This is the 6th episode of seven of the  Athos trip done by Goulven Le Goff and his brother Ivonig from Rennes, France made in May 2015. They visited all 20 monasteries in one week.

Compared to the epic five first days of our trip, the sixth one in the forests covering the north of the peninsula the temperature was much cooler.
The vineyard of Esfigmenou probably produced the excellent wine we drank the day before.

We walked to Chilandariou on a cobbled and cypress-lined road.
                   
The Austrians we met in Prodromos had warned us that the path between Chilandariou and Zographou was full of snakes. Indeed we saw quite a few of them there, but we had already spotted some in other parts of the peninsula.

For the first time during our stay, the weather was rainy when we passed the Cosma’s cave to reach Zographou.
A view of the countryside from the archondariki of Zographou, where we spent some time hoping the rain will stop, while talking with the Bulgarian scholar we met earlier between Stavronikita and Pantokratoros. He told us about the beginning of the twentieth century, when there were more than 11 000 monks on the Holy Mountain, most of them from Russia. According to him, this number falled down to less than 1 000 in the 60s and since have risen up, with more than 3 000 monks living on Mount Athos today.
        
Soon as the rain stopped we left Zographou on a quite sliding cobbled path.
This photo was taken at the only spot where we got lost during our trip. We went all the way down to the Zographou arsanas before understanding we were not on the right way. At first we thought it was a mistake of the people who designed the trails; but in fact we missed a turn which was not easy to see.

In Konstamonitou, as in Esfigmenou, we were not allowed to attend religious services and to eat with orthodox pilgrims. They even didn’t allow us  to hang our laundry  to dry in our room.
Another similarity between those two monasteries: the lighting with oil lamps and the lack of hot water. Despite this, we managed to fully wash ourselves in Konstamonitou.  Thanks to a watering hose in the closets we could take a cold shower.

Text and photo’s Goulven Le Goff, Ivonig Le Goff, some editing by Herman Voogd

This is the last episode of seven of the  Athos trip done by Goulven Le Goff and his brother Ivonig from Rennes, France made in May 2015. They visited all 20 monasteries in one week.
Many thanks for their exciting stories and photographs, HV + WV.

On this last day on Mount Athos, we had planned a four hour walk. We had to reach Daphni before noon to get in time to catch the bus in Ouranoupolis to the airport of Thessaloniki. That’s why we woke up before sunrise. On our way to the monastery exit, we crossed the main courtyard lightened by oil lamps, while we could hear the monks singing in the katholikon. An impressive moment! At night, the path between Konstamonitou and its arsanas is quite dangerous, because of huge gaps at the side of the track. We had to be very careful.
                                               We walked while the sun slowly rises and reached the coast. The first monastery we encountered was Dochiariou, with its typical architecture.
         One hour, later, we entered Xenophontos, perhaps the monastery my brother Ivonig liked the most.
        
The former and the present katholikons of Xenophontos.
         Contrary to the view on Xenophontos from the hill, the one to Russikon or Panteleimonos is not that beautiful: we walked mainly a dirt road under the pouring rain.
We were impressed by the size of the buildings surrounding the monastery of Russikon, built for pilgrims and storage. It looked like the authorities decided to cover every roof of these buildings with slate (in French: lauze) which is way more beautiful than the former green stuff on the roofs. We encountered many people working on this project.

       Here are some impressions of the inner courtyard of the Russian monastery.
     
As we tried to find the path from Russikon to Xeropotamou, we ended in a field fully covered with the items you can see on the photo, most probably wind turbines. It looked like Russians destroyed the path to build them, because at the other side of the field, in a track consumed by vegetation and almost impossible to walk in, we discovered old hiking signs. We continued on this hard way, struggling to move on; our tenacity payed when we finally discovered a beautiful cobbled road climbing to Xeropotamou.
    The rain turned in a downpour when we ended our climb in Xeropotamou. It opens only at 10:30PM so we had to wait a little before visiting it.
 
From Xeropotamou, we enjoyed a nice view on our final goal, the port of Daphni. The descent to get there in the rain was really hard, because of the sliding pavement. We expected to rest a little before taking the boat, but we made the mistake not to book our ticket in advance, so we had to keep standing in an excited crowd to buy it. Not the best moment of this magnificent trip!

Text and photo’s Goulven Le Goff, Ivonig Le Goff, some editing by Herman Voogd

By viewing this film you will experience how to get up to the balcony of this monastery high up the coastal cliffs. It is 300 meters to the harbour below.

Herman Voogd